Bonnie Prince Charlie in Inverness Pub

Prince Tearlach's All-Scottish Penne Carbonara

He was a sturdy, good-looking lad, with thick, light-brown hair curling loose upon his shoulders, and a fair face, cheeks flushed red with cold and exertion.  His nose was running slightly, and he wiped it with the back of his wrapped hand, wincing slightly as he did so.Jamie, both eyebrows raised, bowed politely to the visitor.

"My house is at your service, Your Highness," he said, with a glance that took in the general disorder of the visitor's attire.  His stock was undone and hung loosely around his neck, half his buttons were done up awry, and the flies of his breeches flopped partially open.  I saw Jamie frown slightly at this, and he moved unobtrusively in front of the boy, to screen me from the indelicate sight.

"If I may present my wife, Your Highness?" he said. "Claire, my lady Broch Tuarach.  Claire, this is His Highness, Prince Charles, son of King James of Scotland."

Dragonfly in Amber (Chapter 11 - Useful Occupations)

"There is an Italian person downstairs, Madame," Magnus informed me.  "He would not give me his name."  There was a pinched look about the butler's mouth; I gathered that if the visitor would not give his name, he had been more than willing to give the butler a number of other words.

That, coupled with the "Italian person" designation, was enough to give me a clue as to the visitor's identity, and it was with relatively little surprise that I entered the drawing room to find Charles Stuart standing by the window.

Dragonfly in Amber (Chapter 11 - Useful Occupations)

invergarry-ruins

Although I can't admit to understanding the appeal of Prince Charles Edward Louis John Casimir Silvester Severino Maria Stuart, aka Bonnie Prince Charlie, at least from a historical perspective, I can at least say that he and I have stayed at the same place.  Thankfully, at a very different place in time.

On our recent trip to Scotland, My Englishman and I returned to a place that we both fell in love with two years ago, when we did the same trip along the Caledonian Canal from Inverness to Fort William.  This time, we didn't travel the full length of the canal, instead were content to stop at just over the halfway point, where we enjoyed three nights moored beside Invergarry Castle on Loch Oich.

Secluded and sheltered from the high winds that can wreak havoc on Loch Ness and the other larger, more open bodies of water along the Canal, Oich is too small to be noted on most maps, which suits our super-secret-ninja approach to travel just fine.

boat-

We spent two of our three nights alone at the dock, and you can see by the picture that My Englishman is very happy with the arrangement!  We're headed to the Invergarry Hotel for dinner and a pint here, a peaceful 15 minute walk along a heavily wooded trail beside the River Garry that gives you a very good idea what it might have been like in the 18th C.  The wood is full of giant oaks; leaf mould and moss carpet it's floor, cushioning every step.

It rained off and on for our entire trip, with daily teasing appearances made by the sun.  While I'm happy to report that we saw a rainbow everyday, I also now feel qualified to at least imagine trodding around those hills and trails in the pouring rain, protected only by wet woolen tartan and leather slippers.

No wonder Claire dreamed of hot bathes.

invergarry-castle

Invergarry Castle was the seat of the Clan MacDonnell of Glengarry.  Overlooking Loch Oich on Creagan an Fhithich – the Raven’s Rock – the castle occupied a strategic position during the days of clan warfare.  After nearby raids by Clan MacKenzie (who else?) in the early 17th Century, the Rock of the Raven was fortified to include a six-story tower — the remains of which can still be seen in the picture below.

Bonnie Prince Charlie visited the castle in 1745, riding high on the early successes of his Jacobite Rebellion, and he rested there on the night following the Battle of Culloden, where it all went so terribly wrong.   It is said the Prince's party were forced to forage for their own food, finding the castle deserted, ‘without meat, drink, fire or candle, save some firesticks’.

In retribution for Glengarry’s prominent role in the Jacobite campaign, the castle was sacked and partially blown up by the Duke of Cumberland’s troops, as part of his systematic suppression of the Highlands following Culloden.

storming-the-castle

No, I didn't really climb the fence, but I hope that someday, The Invergarry Castle Preservation Trust will raise enough money to achieve their goal of removing the iron stanchions and concrete cappings that were used in previous stabilisation attempts, and replacing them with more sympathetic materials.  Further ambitions include the installation of a viewing platform and interpretive panels.

delivery

Now back to the food.  And the boat.  Although I did spend about 20 minutes in an Inverness grocery store to stock up the galley before we set sail, most of our provisions for the week were delivered directly to the Caley Cruiser boatyard by Macleod Organics, a family farm and company that delivers organic groceries all over the Highlands and Moray.  I ordered and paid for all of the above online, including tons of fresh veg, organic dairy, local meat, fair trade coffee and chocolate, pumpkin/herb oatcakes, and the most delicious bottle of Rhubarb Vodka Liqueur made from rhubarb grown on a farm near Loch Ness.

It was a good week in the galley, I have to tell you.  Barley risotto (recipe to follow), cauliflower & smoked cheese soup, full Scottish breakfasts, and lunches featuring  venison salami, venison pepperoni, smoked salmon and a selection of local cheeses.

But dinna worry, I didna play Murphy the whole time.  We got plenty of great pub meals in along the way, as well as one of the most memorable birthday meals of my life.

It's all good.  We were on vacation, after all.

charlies-carbonara

I served this with braised local leeks to celebrate the Prince’s Scottish lineage, and slow roasted tomatoes to honour his Italian patrons.

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Comments

13 May 2013 - 2:15pm

littlewhiteapron


Looks delicious! Mmmm, bacon and cheese with pasta! Your pictures are beautiful too!

Theresa


you're so right LWA! bacon and cheese from any country sound good to me.

13 May 2013 - 9:27pm

Jeanne


That looks awesome Theresa! Did you eat it there in the lee of the castle ruins? I'm that envious! Can't wait to see more photos of your outlandish adventures!

Theresa


We did, Jeanne! As you can see from the last photo, the sky cleared just in time for dinner, so we ate our Carbonara seated on the cushions on the back of the boat. We had an amazing vacation where ever we were, but our stay here is a highlight.

15 May 2013 - 12:02pm

Taking On Magazines


I don't even know where to start. How incredibly cool. I love those photos and learning the history behind them. (You should have climbed the fence.) Your groceries; I see halva and that really surprised me. We ate it all the time in Lebanon. Their version is made with tahini. It's still one of my favorite treats and brings back all kinds of memories. Finally, the carbonara, be still my heart. It's my most favorite kind of pasta and I was intrigued to see how you make yours. It looks delicious; well and truly so.

Theresa


So glad you enjoyed it, Christiane! We had an amazing trip, with some great food.

19 Feb 2015 - 1:35pm

Chlo


Just tried this recipe for lunch using linguine instead of penne (with the italian ingredients - parmesan and pancetta - as I couldn't find the scottisch ones anywhere) and it was delicious. Even the brased leeks as side dish mixed really well with the carbonara sauce, even if I didn't put them in the same plate :) In Italy there are different versions of carbonara, my family one is with onion instead of garlic and a little bit of cream in the egg and cheese mixture. Thank you for sharing yours!

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