SCONES WITH PRESERVED LEMON

Quarry nodded and refilled Grey’s glass. “You’re not eating,” he observed. 

“I lunched late.” Quite late. In fact, he hadn’t had luncheon yet. He took a scone and spread it desultorily with jam. 

“And Denys Wossname?” Quarry asked, flicking the letter with a pickle fork. “Shall I inquire about him, too?” “By all means. Though I may make better progress with him on the American end of the matter. That’s at least where he was last seen.” He took a bite of scone, observing that it had achieved that delicate balance between crumbliness and half-set mortar that is the ideal of every scone, and felt some stirrings of appetite return. He wondered whether he should put Harry onto the worthy Jew with the warehouse in Brest, but decided not. The question of French connections was more than delicate, and while Harry was thorough, he was not subtle.

An Echo in the Bone

The addition of Preserved Lemons takes the taste from traditional to distinctively new world.

Makes 8

INGREDIENTS

• ¼ cup granulated sugar 
• 1½ Preserved Lemons, rinsed, flesh and pith discarded, peel minced (about ¼ cup) 
• 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting 
• 2 teaspoons baking powder 
• ½ teaspoon baking soda 
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt 
• ½ cup (1 stick) butter, chilled or frozen 
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten 
• 1¼ cups whipping cream, plus additional for brushing 
• Coarse demerara sugar, for sprinkling

METHOD

In a large bowl, toss together the granulated sugar and preserved lemons. Stir in the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Grate in the butter; toss to coat. Make a well in the center and add the beaten egg and cream. Mix with a fork, incorporating the dry ingredients a little at a time, until a shaggy, slightly dry dough forms. 

Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently into a ball. Press or roll out to a 6 x 12-inch rectangle and fold the long edge in thirds, like a business letter. Rotate the dough one quarter turn and roll it out again into another 6 x 12-inch rectangle. Cut into eight square scones, or use a round cutter if you prefer. Brush the dough with cream and sprinkle with the demerara sugar. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes. 

Move the rack to the middle rung and heat the oven to 375°F. 

Bake the scones until they are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool on a rack. 

Serve with butter and jam. Keep leftovers in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

NOTES

• Store-bought preserved lemons are generally small. You may need up to 3 or 4. 
• For triangular scones, roll the dough into a 1-inch-thick round and cut it into eight even wedges.